Winging it in Whittier (Day 3)
Day 3 dawned and I had no idea what I was going to do after I took the 6AM Ferry to Whittier. I wasn’t the slightest bit worried about anything other than making that damn ferry. It runs every other day, you pay by passenger and by the foot of your vehicle. It was $225 to get that 18 foot behemoth on the boat, and it cost me another $75 to move my reservation up two days. I didn’t want to miss it after all that effort, and 4:45 AM came early! Van GOgh and I ventured over to the ferry terminal, survived the parking process and my first public shower of the adventure. I wanted to include some ferry tips because I was reminded repeatedly that it was a necessary Alaskan activity.
Ferry Tips:
Most of the ferries have public showers, and you are only allowed back to your car before you leave the dock. Once the boat is in motion in the ocean, you can’t get back to your vehicle until you dock in your destination. So park and hit the shower so you can return your stuff to the car and not have to drag it around the boat for several hours. I had gotten a little over the door hook for my jackets in the van and it would have really come in handy for all my stuff because there is nowhere to put it in the tiny cubicle shower onboard. Bring a waterproof bag or hanging device because there is no way to keep your clothes dry while you soap up.
The kitchenette has microwaves, hot water, and everything you might need to fix some of the food you camped with, and the cafe has tolerable coffee and breakfast. That’s about all of the time I spent indoors.
The solarium deck is a great place to watch the water, and the ride hit a lot of the same territory as my Valdez Wildlife Cruise. Clearly the cruise is better, but you’ll enjoy similar views on the ferry and it is definitely worth the time.
There are lots of outlets all over the boat, so bring items to charge in the cafe and lounges.
The ride was pretty, but the drive was better. If I had to do it over again, I’d drive in and out of Valdez and Ferry from another location. Everyone says you have to do a ferry ride- but a ferry and 2 boat cruises felt a little like overkill.
There is a 26 Glacier Tour that leaves from Whittier. I didn’t have time to fit that in, but you see a half dozen from the Ferry coming into the Whittier Harbor. A ride through the Anton Anderson Tunnel to Portage Lake provides views of another half dozen.
If you are taking the ferry FROM Whittier AND you have to clear the tunnel, keep in mind that it runs on the hour and leave LOTS of time.
I had great views of Whittier as the ferry floated into the harbor, and there really wasn’t anything I was dying to do there. It was just the gateway to glaciers and the Kenai Peninsula. I was besotted with the beautiful Inn at Whittier when it caught my eye from the boat. It was right across from the train station, so I parked my car for the inn and was able to snap some photos of the engine on my way in since we were never allowed near it in Fairbanks or Anchorage.
Besides being the longest highway tunnel in North America, The Anton Anderson tunnel is pretty fascinating. It is a single lane that runs cars and trains both directions, so traffic is only allowed through on the hour. We had just missed the tunnel when the boat arrived so I had a quick beer at the inn while I planned my ride. You’re surrounded by glaciers as you wait to enter, so it’s no hardship hanging out to wait.
Service is terrible once you clear the tunnel, so it’s a good idea to have some idea of where you want to go and get it mapped and saved. With one road in and out of most major towns and everything well marked, you should be fine. If you’re like me and like to have a general idea of where you’re going, map and save before you leave Whittier. The Kenai Peninsula has only a couple of pockets of service and a whole lot of dead zone for Verizon.
On the Kenai side of the tunnel is the Portage Glacier and Portage Lake. You can’t miss the first viewing turn off as soon as you clear the tunnel, and your next stop should be the Begich Boggs Visitor Center. It’s currently closed to COVID, but you can walk right down to the lake and get great glacier views. Between the water, wildflowers, and mountain views- it belongs on your wishlist.
I had initially planned to go explore Seward for the day, but I changed my mind a few miles past the Y of Highway 1 and 9 and decided to double back to Homer. I turned around at a beautiful float plane pond in Moose Pass, and that was the first of several stunning turn off views.
The Y is an excellent place to pull off and get your first mirrored lake and mountain photo. The frame will be full of fireweed and it sets the tone for this scenic field trip. Next, you’ll catch your first glimpse of Kenai Lake and the world’s most unbelievably beautiful water. It is a color that defies description and I am convinced cannot be captured on film. There are no good places to pull off and get a photo on the Seward side of the lake, but there are several worth visiting on the way to Homer.
The very first scenic overlook after you catch a glimpse of the water feels like a joke. You see absolutely nothing from the parking lot but a small gap in some boulders. Walk your happy butt down that steep mountain and get ready to have your mind blown. You can climb all the way down to the water from Cooper Landing Cliffs, but there are easier ways. Cooper Landing and the Quartz Creek Campground are excellent viewing points, but I’ll fill you in on my return trip blog. I’m pretty sure the beauty made me hysterical because I couldn’t stop laughing when I took in my surroundings. You can see that here.
There are a few small towns that dot the rest of the peninsula, but I hightailed it to Homer and enjoyed every moment of the scenery along the way. The Russian Orthodox church was high on my list after seeing some beautiful photos of in a field of fireweed, and it did not disappoint. It’s completely skippable, but very enjoyable in golden hour. The ride along the Kachemak Bay is breathtaking, pull over any and every place that catches your eye. Prepare to pull over frequently :) The first rule of Van Life is pee where you can, so the Homer Welcome Center is a good first stop.
I didn’t have much sunlight left by the time I arrived. My aunt and uncle venmoed me a request to have a birthday drink on them at the Salty Dog, so I went straight to the end of the spit. Don’t forget to bring a sharpie to write on your dollar to leave behind. I had a huge giggle at Buttwhackers right behind the bar, their merch is top notch. Sunset on the spit was a spectacular end to the third day of my adventure and the start of a truly tremendous exploration at Homer.
