Van GoGh Chasing Waterfalls (Day 2)
My first night of the VanVenture was a smashing success, and I woke up to more rain, fog, and a perma-grin. I jumped out the door, danced in the rain, and brushed my teeth beside the Van GOgh Camper that put my chalk painted uHaul to shame. I took one last eyefull of the handful of glaciers I slumbered beside, rode down Thompson Pass one last time, and carried on towards Valdez. I am so disappointed I hadn’t set up my new point and shoot camera yet, because I pulled out of my boondock spot and went a mile down the road only to find a beautiful cow moose drinking from the lake in the misty morning. There was barely a shoulder and I sat in the early morning haze watching her
The last hour of the ride is the most stunning of the trip. Richardson Highway is blown into the Keystone Canyon. It boasts two breathtaking main waterfalls, Horsetail and Bridal Veil, and there are dozens of waterfalls, glaciers, and natural wonders along the route. My eyes got wider and wider the farther I drove. I was glad to be experiencing them with fresh eyes and a spring in my step.
EVERYONE suggested the Stan Stephens wildlife cruise. Moving my trip up worked out in my favor, because despite sold out original dates, I called to check availability while driving into town and was told to come straight to the marina and come aboard. I literally parked the van, ran inside, was walked onto the boat and away we went. It was PERFECT timing.
The boat was full of fantastic fellow travelers and we had a marvelous time looking at all of the beauty in the Prince William Sound and helping each other plan our excursions. We got up close and personal with the Columbia Glacier, Chugach Mountains, and the wildlife spotting was out of this world. We saw seals, endangered stellar sea lions, a few stray California sea lions, sea otters, orcas, Dall sheep, bald eagles, and puffins! It was a six hour tour, and we never wanted it to end. Our captain was an unbelievable guide and the whole crew was fantastic. We couldn’t have asked for a better day.
Valdez is lovely. Known for their fish derby, gorgeous scenery, and a lively seaside community- you don’t want to miss this welcoming wonderland. I loved every minute wandering the funky little shops. I had a little progressive dinner- a giggle at The Fat Mermaid, a gourmet (kid’s) crunchwrap at Nat Shack, garlic rosemary curly fries at The Potato, and a flight of unique beers at Valdez Brewing. The only downside of solo travel for me is that there aren’t people to share food with so you can try more things. If I find myself drawn to multiple places people have recommended- I’ll start at one for a drink and an app or a side with a plan to move on to somewhere else. Sometimes you stay, sometimes you go- either way, you get a taste of the place.
Valdez was actually once located several miles from where you find it today. In 1964, the largest earthquake ever recorded in North America obliterated this tiny coastal town. The original site was deemed unsafe for habitation, and everyone was relocated to where they are today. There is a walking tour with QR codes and information about what things looked like before the 4-5 minutes of an 8.6 earthquake and 200 foot tsunamis took the lives of 131 locals. You’ll also want to learn about the Exxon Valdez oil spill while you’re here. These are some hearty people, they’ve been through a lot, but they are eager to share the beauty and bounty of their unbelievably beautiful home.
If you find yourself in Valdez in late summer, you’ll want to do a field trip to Dayville Road and the Soloman Gulch Fish Hatchery. Located just a few miles outside of town, take it nice and slow. If you see people pulled over on the shoulder, you should do the same. I ate my dinner and then I sat and watched black bears plucking salmon out the water from my car on the side of the road. It was astonishing. I drove down to the hatchery and watched sea lions face plant into an all you can eat fish buffet. I even saw seagulls stealing salmon sashimi straight from the lions’ mouths. It was unreal, and a definite highlight of my trip.
Valdez is on the way to nothing, it is its own adventure. I lost a day there due to the travel snafu, and while I think I made the most of it, I didn’t actually have much time in the village itself. I spent a day getting there, most of the day on the water, and did some exploring before falling into an exhausted slumber parked in the marina. I suggest 1 full travel day (mine was a half day since it took so long picking up supplies), 1 day for a the boat tour/Old Town walking tour/dinner, and 1 day to just explore the area. I had a 5:30AM check in for the Valdez Ferry to Whittier, and I didn’t want to miss it. I slept 3 miles from the ferry terminal and had no issues in the marina. While there was no shortage of tourists, this felt like the least touristy spot of my trip. It felt like discovering a gem, and there were lots of locals around to chat up. I can’t recommend this field trip enough. Day 2 was a smashing success. The VanVenture started out so strong, I really had no idea how I was going to top it.
