Totally Into Taos
New Mexico is called the Land of Enchantment for a reason, there is truly something for everyone there. Taos is a charming little artist community. It is full of unique shops, galleries, history, delicious delights, beautiful sights to admire, and natural landscapes that will take your breath away.
I am already counting on coming back to this tiny town in New Mexico. Let me show you why :)
I ate and drank some of the best things I’ve ever tasted, reveled in the chili flavored everything, and hunted hats, turquoise, and treasures throughout my explorations. The views took my breath away, and I was immersed in feelings of magic. It wasn’t hard to find. Every day and every stop felt special. You can’t help but be moved by the people and this place. They say one visit is never enough, and it’s a slippery slope to residency, and I believe them.
As happy as my belly was in Taos, my eyeballs were gobsmacked… the natural wonders are the star of the show. I went to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge 6 times, I couldn’t help but stare in awe and wonder. Somehow it moved me even more than my trips to the grand canyon. Maybe not as much as that free helicopter tour and boozy brunch to the bottom of the canyon on a business trip to Vegas I took with Bob- but this is by far the coolest stand on the edge of a giant hole experience I’ve ever had. It makes you feel so small and inspired to dream bigger and do something that matters. I kept going back to see it at different times of day, but the sunrise there was so good, I dragged my butt out of bed and did it twice. I was shocked to see hot air balloons bobbing in and out of the gorge at sunrise. I think I’m holding out for a hot air balloon festival ride in Albuquerque, but if you have the time and cash, this appears to be the one to do.
There is a daily market set up near the path to the gorge, and I found the best locally made items. If you have any inclination to find some native made treasures, I found excellent vintage and locally made pieces far cheaper than any of the galleries or plaza shops. I picked up some great earrings, turquoise, and learned about staurolite stones. A woman named Hummingbird offered jewelry that her family had been making for years, and I was captivated by her craft and her spirit. She’s one of the only vendors of Staurolite stones and I was fascinated by what she told me. They are incredibly rare and unique, only found in Taos, West Virginia, and Russia. They make a natural cross with garnets said to be the angels tears from the crucifixion of Jesus. Supposedly the stones reduce fevers, stress, cell disorders, and addiction. They are even purported to boost relaxation, alleviate depression and other mental disorders. Even if you don’t believe in the healing properties of the stone, their form is quite striking. Hummingbird’s family walks the mountain behind the gorge searching for the stones and she mounts them into beautiful charms. I grabbed one for my grandma hoping it would help her pious heart heal following the loss of her mother last year. I picked up two more in case any of my friends could use a little talisman. I adored my time chatting with Hummingbird and looked for her every time I came back to the Gorge. I only caught her on my first visit. I guess like her namesake, she’s quick and fleeting- but delightful when you catch a glimpse.
Just past the gorge you’ll see some insane looking structures sticking out of the desert floor. Taos is home to one of the most extensive collection of Earthship Biotecture in the country. The architect of this site was featured in a really interesting documentary. You can book a couple of these uber-green and uniquely designed buildings for the night, attend Earthship University to learn to build your own, or take a tour, which I plan to do on my next visit. Even if you don’t stop in, the view is pretty unique as you drive by.
I’m neither a morning nor a breakfast person. I didn’t expect to love seeing the sunrise over a giant hole in the ground and then stuff my face with breakfast so much that I had to repeat it. But Michael’s Kitchen is a Taos staple, and it was so good I went 3 times. You absolutely want the hashbrowns with Christmas chili (we added a fried egg, which I highly recommend), the blue corn and pine nut pancakes were so unique, and the BLTC (C is for chili) wrap will crush all future BLT dreams (the second time I ordered it, I learned you can get the hashbrowns with chili instead of fries… just saying) I brought home loaves of their chili cheese bread for my family, and their pastries were enormous and incredibly tempting. Michael’s is a must. It’s been open for almost 50 years and it still has some of the original staff. I only visited a couple other restaurants in Taos, and I didn’t make any other repeat trips. My hosts brought me to Orlando’s on my first night. They are serving up some deliciously authentic New Mexican food in an adorably quirky space, I probably would have gone there again had time permitted.
Black Mesa Winery was so unique I had to make a repeat trip to keep sampling their offerings. Have you ever heard of lavender wine? Chili chocolate wine? How about blackberry basil cider? It was so weird and random, and luckily did not give me any Herb Ertlinger vibes. I brought a sparkling rosè home to toast new adventures with my family. I brought home 3 bags of this green chili jerky I found there and it took all of my self restraint to not order myself cases of jerky and wine. If they have their piñon caramel chocolates, snag them all! Vivac Winery had a sweet little patio and I enjoyed my flight- but I didn’t taste anything I had to drag home with me.
The Lounge at the Rolling Still had a great vibe and fabulous cocktails. The Easy Rider was my favorite drink of of the trip. They had so many unique flavored spirits, I wanted to taste them alone. I asked my sweet server if there was any way to sample them and she let me pick 6 for $10. Completely worth it. The Green Chili vodka is absolutely worth the suitcase space, and used in the cocktails at The Treehouse at Lamberts down the street. They did have pretty great bar snacks upstairs and an excellent view of the plaza and galleries.
Taos Brewery is actually located across the street from the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, but it was COVID closed to the public. The taproom right off the square had incredible food and decidedly dreamy beer. I met this lovely lady named Elizabeth who was also a solo adventurer and we swapped tips on exciting parts of our explorations. She’s a regular guest at La Dona Luz Bed & Breakfast right beside the Plaza and told me I couldn’t leave without seeing it. I am so grateful she told me about this stunner and gave me a tour. It is part hotel part kitschy native art gallery. The matriarch of the family hand painted and decorated the lodgings of my dreams. If I ever return to Taos and don’t sit for the same family, I would 100% book a stay here. It’s like the SW version of Madonna Inn but with quirky religious icons.
Georgia O’Keefe isn’t the only famous artist known for falling in love with the scenery of Taos. D.H. Lawrence was also a prominent figure in this community’s history. Lori McKenna has a song called “I Know You,” and my favorite line is “D.H Lawrence would be your favorite poet if you thought poetry was cool. You have to much pride to be a thief and just enough gut to be a fool.” I couldn’t get through Lawrence’s Lady Chatterly’s Lover on my first attempt, so he’s not my favorite poet, but his art has an interesting history. He once had a disastrous showing of his paintings in London in 1929. They, like his books, were deemed obscene and blocked. The police seized the art, and Hotel La Fonda in the Taos Plaza has the 9 surviving pieces behind a curtain in their conference room. It’s definitely a trip, and well worth the $3 to go in and listen to the audio guide while you check them out. By today’s standards they are super tame, but their Victorian viewers were shocked. When you’re cruising around the plaza, just pop in and ask the front desk to let you see the gallery.
I decided to create the High Hat collection because hats kept popping up throughout this adventure. My hosts suggested that I check out Six Hands Hat shop in the plaza, and I was completely blown away by the experience. Kristina and Mikel are true artists, and the whole experience from start to finish was incredible. Their space is so inspiring, they are masters at their craft, and we had a wonderful afternoon collaborating on our hats. I snagged a couple of vintage accessories for the High Hat collection too. They are taking pre-orders almost a year in advance, so I asked the folks I was housesitting for if they were up for another vacation next February! I can’t wait to see our vision come to life.
The drive into Taos is my favorite part. The winding road takes you through mountains and valleys, along the Rio Grande, you can see parts of the gorge, and there is this special tree just outside of town. It sits all alone on the side of the road, and when the light hits it just right, the silvery bark glows. I specifically timed my treks in and out to catch it in different light. I never recaptured the beauty of the first time I saw it, but I did my best to soak in the scenery every time I traversed the pass.
There is absolutely magic in the mountains of Taos. I’d love to see it in every season. I hope you make some time to visit, it is truly a treasure.