Sydney is the Place To Be
I’ve been enamored with the Sydney Opera house since I was a little girl. I’ve always loved clouds, sails on the water, art, live performances and beautiful buildings- so telling me there was a place in a faraway land that combined all of those things made it a frequent star of my daydreams. Bonus points for crazy animals you don’t see anywhere else in the world. When I went on this Soul Sabbatical of mine, Australia was near the top of my international wishlist. I didn’t think I could possibly manage to keep myself booked for an entire 3 month tourist visa, but I’m proud to say, I did and I maximized my adventure time. They say to never meet your heroes, and the things you build up in your mind never hold up, but Sydney (and the Opera House) exceeded my expectations in the most spectacular way.
I wasn’t going to make the trek for an Australian adventure until I could line up some long term sits. I thought I hit the jackpot with a 2 month high-rise housesit in Sydney, and it became the cornerstone of my planning. Unfortunately it fell through due to emergency heart surgery for my host, but I was able to book Melbourne, Cairns, Gold Coast and Brisbane while searching for my replacement sit in Sydney. It was stressful and full of plot twists, but I found a wonderful opportunity for a month with two shy cats in a gorgeous apartment in a great neighborhood about 25 minutes from the main attractions. The anticipation for my arrival just kept building, and honestly my visit got better and better with each passing day. It became very clear that everything happens for a reason, and I can honestly say that Sydney was one of the best experiences of my 21 months of my Soul Sabbatical.
To me, the most iconic symbol of Sydney is the Opera House, but it is probably tied with the Harbour Bridge for most touristy destinations. The Opera House is the hands down highlight for me, but the views of the bridge from the Opera House steps are so captivating, they are nearly impossible to separate in my mind. I probably made a dozen trips to the Opera House and never stopped admiring (or photographing) the exterior. I simply couldn’t get enough. It became the best kind of “Where’s Waldo,” trying to find the best views from various vantages around town. I took an obscene amount of photos of the exterior, and I nearly lost my mind taking the tour of the interior. The architecture tours book up early, but I was grateful for all the background on the building in the basic tour. If you’re into sketching, there is limited availability for a free drawing tour every month. I think I would have really enjoyed that, even as a drawing disabled person.
Some Fun Facts discovered onsite:
The entire opera house roof is a giant mosaic of ceramic tiles.
It’s not just one big building, there are 2 large theaters and a restaurant.
There are different projection shows after dark each night. I happened to arrive just after the queen’s death, and the tribute was beautiful. I caught a show about the indigenous people before the fantastic tribute concert for the creators of Les Mis and Miss Saigon with a couple original cast members in the concert hall.
If you have a couple hundred bucks to spare and no fear of heights, I’ve heard nothing but AMAZING things about the Sydney Bridge Climb. We had such crappy weather forecasted, I didn’t even try to schedule a climb. I saw people up there every day, but with my luck, I’d be out there in the pouring rain or struck by lightning. Just like when you walk the Brooklyn Bridge, I suggest walking towards the city for the best views. You can’t go wrong by taking the ferry to Luna Park/Milson’s Point, and walked back towards town across the bridge for free. If you’re good with stairs, there is a $19 lookout at the top of the Pylon closest to Circular Quay. I was completely content to wave to the climbers rather than be clipped in at the top myself. There is a museum with some really interesting artifacts and educational pieces about the construction of the bridge. The “documentary” in the screening room was pretty terrible but excellent for mocking- so let that guide your decision on whether or not you want to stay to see it. The views of Sydney from the top are entirely worth the 200 steps and price of admission. Your alternate suggestion for aerial views is Sydney Tower Eye, but every time I went to go, the weather turned terrible.
The views from the actual attractions are lovely, and you’ll get great photos taking the ferry to Luna Park/Milson’s Point. This is the same iconic big mouth moon entrance that I made a point to visit in Melbourne, and the kitschy buildings and carnival atmosphere are a lot of fun. I highly suggest walking through the theme park and continuing onto Wendy Whiteley’s Secret Garden, it is charming, quiet, and quite picturesque. This is a great thing to do on a Kirribilli Market weekend. There are are some really talented makers showcased in their bi-weekly pop-ups.
I found several secret gardens on different round ups on fun things to experience in the city. Paddington Reservoir made the list and caught my attention since it looked like an ancient Roman viaduct. I happened to pass it on the bus one night and hopped off. It is MUCH smaller than it appears in pictures, but it is absolutely worth a quick trip.
It’s definitely not a secret, but the Royal Botanic Garden is accessible from the far side of the Opera House, and offers gorgeous scenic views in addition to lush gardens. It was a little weird to be watching autumn arrive at home and experience spring half a world away. I found myself killing time and people watching in the garden at least a half dozen times. Put it on your list, even if you aren’t necessarily a garden person. The wisteria was in full bloom and made the gardens smell heavenly. It’s a beautiful place to walk around and feel grateful for the adventure you’re on.
The Opera House and Bridge are both accessible from Circular Quay, making it your Sydney hub. This is where you go for your standard views of the Harbour Bridge, Opera House, and to catch the ferry to the popular beach towns. There’s also a train station, light rail depot, and a big exchange for the busses, so even if you’ve hit the highlights, you’ll probably find yourself navigating to the Quay (pronounced KEY) pretty frequently. While it is without question the most touristy part of Sydney, there is an energy in the area that cannot be beat. One of my personal favorite stops was the perfectly placed Parisian bistro, Whalebridge, which is a beautiful spot for people and ferry watching.
The area to the left of the Quay and towards the bridge is called The Rocks. It’s full of historic laneways and some of the oldest pubs and excellent views. It’s absolutely worth a walk and wander, especially on the weekends when local makers gather for The Rocks Market. The Rocks Discovery Museum is free and is an excellent resource on the area. I absolutely fell in love with a local artist, Max Mendez, at Squidinki. His cheeky prints and puns were delightful, and I had the best time getting to know him and his work. I felt like Matt Pearson Photography was stalking me. I found it at the wonderful market under the bridge, at the gallery beside the contemporary art museum, on the walls at local cafes, and even lining the entry at the apartment I was staying in. When I finally have walls again, one of his prints are going to grace them. I enjoyed their galleries much more than the Museum of Contemporary Art. While only a couple of pieces in the museum appealed to me, some completely freaked me out (see the inflatables.) The highlight for me was the view from the restaurant deck. I’m a much bigger fan of the Customs House, a library and museum across the Quay with a Gehry/Guggenheim-esque staircase and massive model of the city.
I had much better luck at the nearby Art Gallery of New South Whales. Despite the construction, the building itself was breathtaking. I was thrilled to see their Monet, and disappointed that their Van Gogh was not on display as advertised. There was some really interesting modern and beautiful local art as well. Apparently it’s not always free, but it was for my visit.
We got a tip that the Australia Museum was a must visit. I loved that every museum I visited in Sydney was free, and since rain was forecasted for 90% of my stay, it was a nice way to plan to spend the rainy portions of my days. The animal exhibits were fascinating, the prehistoric Koala the size of an SUV alone was worth the visit. I particularly enjoyed the Australian Geographic Exhibition with incredible photos of the natural beauty of Australia.
I honestly didn’t have much of a plan, I just wanted to walk around Sydney and see things that made me happy. Art museums were a given, but the architecture is interesting, and there were lots of beautiful beaches and gardens to visit for great views. I particularly enjoyed the Forgotten Songs empty bird cage art installation, walking along Hyde Park, popping in to hear an organ concert at the truly magnificent Town Hall, admiring the architectural details of the Queen Victoria Building (QVB) and fancy Fullerton Hotel, strolling along the picturesque streets and shops of Surry Hills, and honestly just craning my neck to check out every beautiful building and garden in between. I’d be remiss if I didn’t tell you that I went through Surry Hills nearly every day, and I was absolutely enamored with an adorable boutique filled with fabulous accessories and decor, Chilli Coral. I will have recurring daydreams about the spicy and satisfying Pizza Fritta Allegra, and by the time I left, I had a full blown addiction to the Messina Gelato. There are locations all over the city, but I discovered the life changing lychee coconut flavor at this location, and it was a daily struggle to not hop off the bus and grab a kiddie scoop every night on the way home. Just like in Melbourne, there are bubble tea and gelato shops on every corner in Sydney, and I’ll never complain about it. I think I’ve mentioned my adoration of Chef Roy Choi in multiple posts, and that The Chef Show has driven a couple of my dining decisions over the course of this adventure. Our trips to Sydney overlapped by a day and I was faithfully stalking his socials for recommendations. He did not lead me astray by singling out Messina. I’ll be missing it for the rest of my days.
While I tend to spend a lot of time alone on my travels, I have family living in Sydney and family that arrived for a quick visit, so we got to explore together for a bit of our overlapping adventures. My aunt and uncle were less concerned about the sights and more interested in what to eat while they were in town. That’s my least favorite part of all the solo travel- the limited amount of things you can try on a single stomach. Enter the progressive lunch plan. We would meet up and stop for a dish or two at different places for truly epic lunches, be too full to eat dinner, and make it an early night for our US work schedules. We did some serious damage on Dumpling Day, Noodle day, and multiple rounds of hot pot in Chinatown. We really didn’t have any duds in the area, though we once regretted changing our order at a repeat visit at Chung King, a bulk style hot pot place with the most magnificent Tum Yum soup base and next level refrigerated collection of proteins, vegetables, and interesting additions to the beloved family style meal. I loved Chung King so much I went 4 times. It’s my top pick for tasty stops in Sydney. I’d never had Biang Biang noodles before, but my aunt showed me the error of my ways with these epic hand pulled noodles in spicy broth. It’s been a month and I’m still thinking about their flakey buns.
While I’ve been to much more impressive Asian night markets, this one is a fun Friday night kick off. Wander along the blocks of red tents and see what shops and food stalls catch your eye. Don’t sleep on the Shawn the Sheep spicy lamb skewers, they were so good we had to go back for a second bag. My uncle has been a vegetarian for the better part of 30 years, and recently reintroduced himself as an omnivore. He had a hankering for Korean BBQ and we found ourselves at Butchers Buffet where he went whole hog on the line of quality meats, seafood and ban chan. It was delicious, streamlined, and relatively smoke free thanks to their expansive exhaust systems. It was a welcome bonus to leave without smelling like a bbq bonfire.
If you need a fun space to walk off an impressive meal, I highly suggest the (free) White Rabbit Gallery. It’s just outside of Chinatown and home to a charming tea house and an impressive private collection of Chinese art. I caught a very thought provoking exhibition called I Loved You. I am so grateful to have happened upon a guided tour, because our docent brought so much life and meaning beyond the beauty of the work. It was one of the best gallery experiences I’ve ever had and I’ve been to more than a few.
Chinatown also borders the aptly named Darling Harbour, an adorable ferry stop and tourist hub. I won a ticket to see Mary Poppins at the theatre there, which I absolutely enjoyed, but the main draw for us was the Aquarium. My aunt is new to SCUBA, but has been a lifelong marine biology buff. All she wanted was to go see the Dugong, the southern hemisphere’s version of a manatee. We thought a weekday afternoon would be a good time to go, but the place was packed with the most rambunctious kids and it was pure mayhem. We were anxious and overwhelmed by the madness for our entire visit, but even if it had been empty, I still don’t think we would have loved it. The enclosures felt entirely too small for the wildlife, and it wasn’t all that well maintained. There is a ride that takes you through the penguin enclosure that might make it worth a visit, but it had a 3 hour line when we arrived so I have nothing to report. My favorite part were the two tunnels, one full of sharks and one full of rays and the Dugong. Unless you are a diehard aquarium fan and have to see them all, or are a huge fan of silly greenscreen souvenir photos, I’d put it on your skip list.
It was cloudy on most of my trips Darling Harbour, but on Poppins day it was raining sideways. The spiral recess on the esplanade was pretty when dry, but mesmerizing while wet. It filled with rain and put on a show as it appeared to slide down the spiral. I wouldn’t go out of your way to hit the harbour in the rain, but it’s not a bad consolation prize.
They do fireworks every Saturday night from Darling Harbour, and I got a great tip as I was leaving that you should ferry into Darling Harbour at sunset and watch the lights come on and stay for the fireworks.
Finding Nemo will tell you that fish are friends, not food… but if you’re a seafood fan, the Sydney Fish Market is a must see. We were a little nervous when our first stop had us in a small little seafood shop. We wandered around a bit until we found the epic food hall full of vendors slinging various seafood specialties. We stopped for a round of Mornay Scallops that totally called our names. My aunt had a hankering for some sashimi that she had freshly sliced from a fish counter. Not in the mood for sashimi, I went to find another course and found some beautiful prawns, local oysters, and Japanese blow-torched crab legs for our crew. My uncle couldn’t stop talking about getting a chilli crab and came back with the biggest crab I’ve ever seen PLUS a lobster on homemade noodles from Peter’s. Needless to say, we were VERY successful at the seafood market. They offer tours, cooking demos, and you really can’t go wrong with any of the seafood vendors. It’s also your best shot at seeing the Anzac Bridge, and an easy walk to my favorite Sydney secret gem.
I wasn’t sure what my various family members were wanting to do together, so I tried to find an off the beaten path spot for my first Saturday in Sydney. I decided to go check out the Glebe Markets, an adorable mix of food vendors and craftsmen. Of course I arrived with a surprise rain shower, so I hid out in Sappho Secondhand Bookstore & Cafe and fell in love. I enjoyed a pot of chai on the prettiest patio and enjoyed perusing their various vintage books and music. I knew that my uncle, an english major, former bookstore employee, and longtime bibliophile would love it, so we wound up going back. I was surprised by a sign advertising a sale (to the right person) and started daydreaming about a Shop Around the Corner type experience in this adorable little neighborhood. Nothing really caught my eye at the market, but my nose was entranced by the food members. smelling food vendors. I was a huge fan of a jewelry/gift/plant store called Heart Space, Mineralism, a rock shop with some of the most budget friendly opal offerings, and the watermelon sorbet at Ciccone & Sons.
The University of Sydney is just around the corner from Glebe, and the grounds and gothic architecture are gorgeous and VERY Hogwarts-esque. Apparently it is so convincingly similar to the beloved Harry Potter hallways, there are Chinese tour sites offering up tours and calling it a filming location. It was absolutely gorgeous in Glebe, and an easy bus or walk from downtown.
Sydney is going to have a special place in my heart, because I really had the most magnificent time. It was well worth the wait and added drama to get there. It was the perfect way to wind down my Australian adventure, and I can definitely see myself going back. I still need to make it to Tasmania and New Zealand, so I think that can be arranged.
