Healing in Hot Springs

I had a mini-melt down processing the Atlanta Spa shootings. My whole family has been struggling to figure out how we got here. I know how and why my family is here physically.They left their war torn country to escape the horrible internment camp my grandfather absolutely would have been sent to for his work fighting communism. They worked 2-3 jobs each to give their four, then five, kids a better life. My youngest aunt was the first one born in the US, but I’m the first grandchild. The first of many mixed children people can’t quite identify, and one that’s spent my whole life laughing off the awkward racist and uncomfortable actions and conversations. Until now, now it’s just too much to ignore and brush aside.

I was devastated as I began unpacking a whole fleet of baggage I didn’t know I’d been carrying. Realizations I should have made decades ago overwhelmed me and I had to get away. I started this address-less adventure knowing that I’d need to be flexible and do what I felt was right. I knew it could be scary and overwhelming, but I thought that would just be about adjusting to a new lifestyle not the simple act of living.

I committed to sticking close to home until I was fully vaccinated and my brother graduated high-school, but I was frozen with indecision on what to do or where to go. Breathing while Asian was once mildly inconvenient but was now downright dangerous. Had I made a huge mistake? Just existing in America shouldn’t be this scary. Was I better off staying put and putting off this travel I so desperately wanted to build my life around.

Friends checked in, many offered help in sweet and different ways. My friend Michael found a yurt in Hot Springs Arkansas, a place I’d always wanted to visit but never made time for on my many many many drives back and forth between Nashville and Austin. It was halfway for us, cheap, in the woods, and we could figure out what we were comfortable with Covid safety-wise and move on from there.

Catherine’s Landing is a gorgeous park with RV, Camping, Yurt, and Cottage options. They had great amenities, clean facilities, and everyone kept their space. It was nice and convenient to everything we wanted to do. I would absolutely stay in one of their sister properties. Garden of the Gods, Yosemite, and Pigeon Forge all look great to me. Even prissy little Koby loved our field trip in nature.

The state park is not exactly what I expected. We didn’t do any hikes, just a scenic drive to the very scary looking observation tower. We DID go to the incredible botanical garden on the edge of the park. It was a little too early for big blooms so we didn’t go in, but we fell in love with the Anthony Chapel and carillon. It was designed by a protege of Frank Lloyd Wright, and even though we could only observe the exterior, I couldn’t believe my eyes.

We hit hot springs in spring break, so it was really hard to score an appointment for a mineral bath. Quapaw Baths was absolutely beautiful. We did the private microsilk hydrotherapy in our own little cabana. We felt nice and safe and enjoyed the time. It was like a $60 hot tub with fancy water, no weird sulphur smells, and our skin felt fantastic after. I’d love to go back when their steam cave re-opens. All of the bath houses offer public bath options, but the waiting list line starts at dawn and they were turning people away like crazy.

Fordyce Bathhouse is now the visitor’s center. It’s closed due to COVID, but I would LOVE to go back and take in the gorgeous architecture of the house and the epic stained glass ceiling.

We brought most of our meals with us, but we had two fantastic field trips. Happy hour at Hale Hotel’s Eden is delightful. It feels like eating in a secret garden and the drinks were the best I’ve had since lockdown started. It was right next door to our bathhouse, and the perfect way to rehydrate. The Adam fries are heavenly.

We fell hard for Superior Bathhouse Brewery. One trip to their new beer garden and a second for food and flights when they first opened on our way out of town. They had really unique and fantastic beer made from the nutrient rich thermal spring water. I am a die hard condiment fan, and I wanted to bathe in their pineapple habanero sauce. I would drive back there just to eat that sauce and drink their beer. I would also go back on my way to a Crater Diamonds State Park where you can mine for diamonds! I couldn’t get a timed ticket, but I’ve heard wonderful things.

Arkansas is entirely under-rated. Even though their roads are god-awful and it is miserable actually driving through it, there are plenty of interesting field trips to take less than 7 hours away from Nashville or Austin. If you don’t already have the Roadtrippers app, you’re doing it wrong. This is a great (free) way to plan a random day trip or find unique stops along your route. You can ask it to find food, curiosities, outdoor activities, landmarks, etc… I’ve discovered plenty of weird must-sees this way, and I’m confident you’ll love it too. Happy trails y’all!