Fly me to Fiji

After a lovely long layover in LA, I took a fun field trip to Fiji en route to Melbourne. I figured if I had to book on Fiji Airways, I was going to make the most of it and got the longest layover possible. Research said I could stow my bag at the airport and book a tour upon arrival. So I did a little digging on what I could possibly see near the Nadi airport, hit the road and hoped for the best.

I left LAX at midnight and landed in Nadi as the sun came up. My heart was in my throat as the light hit some stunning scenery. I couldn’t wait to get off the plane and start exploring the island. Customs was a breeze, bag check was simple. Don’t forget that you need to pay cash to stow your bags, so either order Fijian dollars from your local bank or convert some currency at the kiosk in the airport when you land. Cash is king on the island, so I wound up needing an ATM stop. Get a little more than you might think. Unfortunately my departing flight was a little earlier than most of the tour returns, and it was peak season, so I struck out at all of the airport tour groups. They suggested that I just take a taxi to the marina and spend my day exploring around there.

I tried another tour group when I got to the Port Denarau Marina, and they tried desperately to squeeze me onto a boat trip, but it just wasn’t my day. They tried to get me to go sit through a Wyndham time share session for a free lunch and gift card, but that was not how I wanted to spend my only day in Fiji. After about 45 minutes of wandering the marina, I was ready to move onto something else. There’s only so many t-shirt and junk shops a person can walk through. I took a seat on the deck ready to google a new destination when a third tour company started chatting me up. Turns out third time’s a charm, because even though the Wyndham team couldn’t get me on one of their own tours, they had a friend they thought could help.

Meet SuSu, he was my personal tour guide and cultural ambassador to Fiji. He called in favors and got me access to the most beautiful private beach, a fabulous favorite local’s only spot for lunch, and even got a friend to whip me up a batch of Cava before happy hour officially began. I can’t possibly recommend him highly enough. 2 enthusiastic thumbs up, 5 stars, and big smiles for our adventure day together. It was a wonderful whirlwind, and I’m so glad I carved out some time for a sneak peak of a stunning slice of paradise.

We had planned to visit the Garden of the Sleeping Giant botanical garden and the Mudpool & Hot Spring, but we didn’t have time. The Sri Siva Temple was my top priority for my visit, but I’d have swapped it for the hot spring or garden. My tour guide was REALLY creepy. The family on the tour with me was just as uncomfortable with the way he kept talking to me, none of us could wait to get out of there. As glad as I am for the cultural experience, we weren’t allowed to take photos and women aren’t allowed to smile or laugh inside the temple. I got my shoes back and RAN back to SuSu in the car. There would have been squealing tires and burnt rubber left behind had I been driving.

Next we took a beautifully scenic drive to the Yatule Resort & Spa so I cold get a pristine Fiji Beach moment. We watched bareback beach rides and families frolicking in the water. We rehydrated with a roadside stop for fresh coconut water en route to a delicious lunch at Sweet Laisa’s Kitchen. The owners sat and talked with us, carved up our drained coconuts, and shared their stories and selves with us. The fried fish with coconut sauce, yuca, and greens hit the spot after a long travel day and some fun in the sun.

Everyone told me I wasn’t allowed to leave the island without a visit to Viseisei Village, the oldest settlement on the island. A small donation paid for a local to show me around and share the culture of the original settlers of the island. It’s a little surreal to discuss a cannibalistic history on the steps of a methodist church, and to see brain scooping tools on craft tables with shell jewelry.

I had heard so many tales from diving friends about their experiences with the local drink, Cava. I needed to be back at the airport at 3:30, and Cava hour starts at 5. SuSu took me to the Nadi Municipal Market and had a friend whip us up a “low-tide” (low octane) batch for me to sample before boarding my flight. I was a little freaked out drinking local water with some grey powder stirred into it. It tasted like cloudy water, made my mouth numb, and my muscles relax. I don’t feel the need to try it again, but I can see how it gets people into trouble.

Fiji is one of those places I always put on the romantic no-go list for myself. In my mind, it’s a honeymoon destination, not a spoiled spinster solo spot. Fiji is full of the friendliest people, a beautiful culture, delicious food, and magnificent views. Sun up to sun down is probably a little TOO quick of a trip, but Susu gave me a solid sample, and I’m so glad I came.

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