Can’t wait for Cairns
I can’t say that I ever expected to see 2 of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World in the same summer, but I’m thrilled to have visited the Grand Canyon and the Great Barrier Reef on this glorious adventure. Somehow I was able to sneak a quick trip up to Cairns, a couple snorkle stops on the reef, and a wander around this charming beach town en route to Gold Coast and Brisbane.
If Melbourne felt like Seattle, Cairns felt like Del Ray, Florida. It’s your hub for Great Barrier Reef tours and excursions, and home to the world’s oldest tropical rainforest. There are hundreds of reef excursions to choose from, the research is pretty overwhelming. Everyone I spoke to suggested Quicksilver Tours out of Port Douglas. I couldn’t make the logistics work (their shuttle service only runs for a specific season, and I had no way of getting the 90 minutes north to meet the boat) so I booked a full day Ocean Freedom tour per their suggestion. Your all day excursion comes with 2 snorkel stops, all of the necessary gear, a glass bottom boat ride, guides and instructions, a marine biologist onboard for commentary, a beautiful buffet lunch and a perfectly wonderful once in a lifetime day. Even uncertified scuba divers can get training onboard and do a dive. They can even accommodate non-swimmers with flotation devices and a staff buddy to keep an eye on you.
My middle school offered a gym class called Outdoor Sports and Recreation, so it had been about 25 years since I learned to snorkel and scuba dive in the Canyon Vista swimming pool. That was several lifetimes ago, but I just had vague memories of fear and misery. I honestly thought I was drowning in the foggy masks and leaky snorkels, awkwardly trying to maneuver in fins. I always loved the water, but underwater pursuits never became my passion. I told myself I wasn’t going all the way out to the Great Barrier Reef to just view it from the surface. I will say, snorkel trips aren’t the easiest for solo travelers. It’s not safe to be down there without a buddy. I met some of the kindest people on board, and a great German family let me borrow their mom, Margot, to paddle around and explore together. I can’t really figure out how her husband and two kids spent all day on the boat without ever even getting in the water, but Margot and I jumped in and practically had to be dragged back after each stop. She bravely brought her phone out for underwater photos, and kindly shared a couple snaps with me. Our first trip was dreamy. The gear all worked perfectly, the water was such a comfortable temperature and pretty shallow, there was a lot to see. I was kicking myself for all of the years I spent working at resorts with free snorkeling gear and never giving it another go. Our second trip was slightly less successful. We both had to hold our masks to our faces to fight the water. It was frustrating, but we fought through it.
It’s no secret that the reef has been dying for years and that we have a responsibility to change our behaviors to save it. Though the coral cover is experiencing a bit of an uptick, colors are considerably more muted than just a couple years ago. I was delighted to swim with sea turtles and see tons of fish. It took us both stops and a bit of hunting, but I finally got to see some clownfish. The parrotfish, angel fish, and blue tang were much easier to find. A few humpback whales put on a killer show for us on the way back.
I had some work commitments, so I wasn’t able to join any of the rainforest tours I was hoping to catch, but I was able to enjoy a half day wander around Cairns. The Doongal Aboriginal Art gallery was incredibly well curated and the Cairns Art Gallery offers free admission and excellent exhibits. Walking along the esplanade, I was drawn to the Salt House like a moth to a flame. The Aperol VW bus, bean bags and beautiful patio made for the perfect place to reflect on a wonderful day and watch the water. As an added bonus, another solo female traveler named Suzanah sat beside me and we had a terrific chat. Her birthday was the day after mine and we were both celebrating with a big Barrier Reef adventure. I’m a big fan of big trees, and the banyans here were epic. I was incredibly impressed by how easy to navigate and lovely the town was. My Air B&B was my first hostel experience. It was insanely inexpensive and walkable to everything I wanted to see and do, I’d highly recommend it.
I only had a few days between housesits, and I really didn’t set myself up for success with a trip this quick. If I had to do it again, I’d spend a couple days, book several tours or at least rent a car and really take advantage of all of the natural wonders in Cairns. There are visitor centers and excursion desks all along the tourism district, so even if you aren’t the type to do a lot of research and planning, you’ll be able to get some help maximizing your visit.
